Off The Beaten Path
San Giovanni d’Asso, Radicofani, Monte Amiata & more
Radicofani
Image by Parco della Val d'Orcia
Visit
Il Bosco Isabella
Image by Parco della Val d'Orcia
An exotic garden with a central - mysterious - pyramid immersed in the woods just outside of Radicofani, built by Odoardo Luchini and dedicated to his wife, Isabella. Projected to be an English style garden, one that would be in harmony with nature, disrupting it in the least way possible. Paths and short dry stone walls were built to guide visitors through the park. During construction many archeological finds were uncovered, from an Etruscan place of worship to the remains of a small fort belonging to the Republic of Siena, which was used to monitor the Via Francigena which passes just below the hill. Luchini built a rock pyramid with a triangular base as one of the symbols of his masonic affiliations. His aim was for the garden to be an open-air Masonic temple. Elements which might appear natural and casual to the untrained eye are actually manufactured on purpose. Trees in groups of threes and bushes shaped like circles—which represent the eye of providence, are just a few examples of what you might spot on your walk.
Image by Parco della Val d'Orcia
La Posta Medicea
Image by Parco della Val d'Orcia
Situated along the Via Francigena, the 16th century construction built by the Medici family was meant as a place to host voyagers who were on their way to and from Rome. Construction began in 1584, upon a pre-existent lodge owned by the family, upon request of the Grand Duke Ferdinando I de-Medici. The majority of travelers who stopped to rest belonged to an elite group of society, so throughout history the Posta Medicea hosted extremely renowned people, such as Pope Pius VI, Pope Pius VII, Joseph II Holy Roman Emperor, Charles Dickens, Stendhal and Amadeus Mozart. The passage of all these figures reiterates Radicofani’s historical importance. When visiting, pay close attention to the beautiful fountain built for horses to drink from. The Posta Medicea is often also referred to as the Ostera Grossa and was used until the 19th century as a post and station where travelers could switch horses. Opposite the building is another relevant infrastructure, a dogana (custom), built during the rule of the Republic of Siena.
Image by Si Viaggia
La Fortezza
Image by Si Viaggia
Built over 1000 years ago on an imposing basalt rock which reaches a height of 896 meters above sea level. Contested throughout history by multiple ruling families, but out of all its inhabitants there is one who stands out more, Ghino di Tacco, known as a gentleman-bandit, who lived in the fortress around 1297. A Robin Hood style figure who was also cited by Dante Alighieri in The Divine Comedy, and by Boccaccio in The Decameron. Going back in the years slightly, the Papal state was in possession of the fortress from 1153, taking advantage of its favorable position and scope: a fortification above the Via Francigena. Nowadays the fortress is home to an archeological museum and one can visit its underground passageways and its tower, which reaches an astonishing height of 1000 meters above sea level.
Image by Radicofani Val d'Orcia
Events
Image by Radicofani Val d'Orcia
August - Sagra del Raviolo, Contignano (Radicofani)
Quercia delle Checche
Image by Val d'Orcia
History
Image by Val d'Orcia
A monumental oak tree which is over 300 years old, situated along the road that connects Pienza to the rest of southern Tuscany. The beautiful, ancient tree is more than 19 meters tall, has a trunk that measures a circumference of almost 5 meters and is overall over 34 meters in diameter. When the quercia delle cecche was born, Val d’Orcia was a place full of wooded areas and forests. It remained as such until the 1600s, when the railway connecting Florence and Rome was built. The whole area was deforested with the exception of a few trees which were graced as they were needed to provide farmers and shepherds with some shade. The giant oak also provided shade and a rest point for various armies throughout history, most notably Napoleon’s soldiers. Stopping by the quercia to pay it a visit is an obligatory stop for anyone traveling to or through Val d’Orcia.
San Giovanni d’Asso
Image by wikipedia
Visit
Museo del Tartufo
Image by wikipedia
Within the small hamlet of San Giovanni d’Asso is the museum of Truffle, which offers a multi-sensorial experience in the world of truffles. Divided in four sections: “mystery of the truffle”, “truffles and our senses”, “scents” and “truffle on the table” to give guests an in-depth understanding of the esteemed tuber. The museum is situated within San Giovanni d’Asso’s central castle, built in 1300.
Saturday and Sunday from 10:30AM to 6:30PM
https://www.museisenesi.org/museo/museo-del-tartufo-e-centro-di-documentazione/Monte Amiata
Visit
Il Giardino di Daniel Spoerri
Swiss artist and collector Daniel Spoerri began creating a sculpture garden on Monte Amiata’s slope at the beginning of the 90’s, which he opened to the public in 1997. The garden can be visited from April to late October, and is beautiful in every season, from the bright green spring to multi colored hues of orange and red in autumn. The giardino is home to 113 installations made by 55 different artists, in an area that covers a total of 16 hectares. Due to its position, on Monte Amiata’s slope, it is found within a densely wooded landscape, offering a view of southern Tuscany which is quite different - yet equally fascinating - from the cypress lined hills. The name derives from the location’s name on old maps, which was known as il paradiso, which is also universally known as the Garden of Eden, which translated to Italian is il giardino. Beyond art, Spoerri’s garden hosts a wide diversity of ancient plant varieties which thrive on the mountain’s volcanic soil.
http://www.danielspoerri.org
Image by Scopri Piancastagnaio
Events
Image by Scopri Piancastagnaio
October to November - Festa della Castagna di Piancastagnaio, in Piancastagnaio
Image by Silene
Eat
Ristorante il Silene*
local fine dining
Delicious, researched dishes with ingredients sourced either from the One Michelin restaurant’s vegetable garden or Monte Amiata. An immersive gastronomic experience and an obligatory stop when visiting Val d’Orcia.
https://www.ilsilene.it/silene/La Foce
Image by La Foce
Visit
La Foce Villa and Garden
Image by La Foce
Built in the late 14th Century with the purpose of serving as a hostel for pilgrims and merchants that would travel along the busy and trafficked Via Francigena. Starting from 1924 Antonio and Iris Origo inhabited the villa, turning it into a farm and their permanent residence. Iris Origo, an internationally-renowned biographer and Anglo-American historian, wrote a book about her wonderful and challenging years at La Foce: Immagini e Ombre e Guerra in Val d’Orcia (Images, shadows and war in Val d’Orcia). When the couple bought the property, they tasked British architect Cecil Pinsent - the architect who worked on Villa Medici in Fiesole - to renovate the buildings and create a garden. The harmony between the buildings, gardens and nature places Villa La Foce at the centre of an historical testimony of the evolution of architecture and culture in Tuscany. Pinsent created a formal Italian-style garden with terraces that creep up the hill and 14th century statues.
Guided tours of the garden occur on Wednesday afternoons (3PM, 4PM, 5PM, 6PM), Thursdays and Sundays (11:30AM, 3PM, 4:30PM). Booking is recommended.
https://www.lafoce.com/it/giardino/visite.htmlImage by Laurenzi Consulting
Eat
Dopolavoro La Foce
rustic & chic
Delicious Tuscan food in a brightly-lit renovated farmhouse, serving a local, hard to find specialty: il Bico, similar to focaccia, filled with whatever your heart desires, from cheese to cured meats and fresh anchovies.
Experiences
Image by Puscina Flowers
Visit
Puscina Flowers, Montefollonico
Image by Puscina Flowers
A flower farm and lab created by three sisters, Laura, Teresa and Mara, whose aim was to cultivate seasonal flowers and create beautiful floral arrangements for weddings and other special occasions. This year’s novelty has been the introduction of experiences, from a guided tour of their farm to an aperitivo experience where guests can visit the cultivations, pick their own bouquet and finish off with an aperitivo surrounded by nature. For the real flower lovers, an all-day workshop in which you discover all the techniques used to produce flowers in the most natural and non-invasive way possible.
https://www.puscinaflowers.com
Image by Mulino Val d'Orcia
Mulino Val d’Orcia, Pienza
Image by Mulino Val d'Orcia
A flour mill, agriturismo and high quality production all in the hands of the Grappi family, who take care of all the different parts of the company: from the four milling and the pasta production to the hospitality aspect. Guests staying at one of the three agriturismi have the possibility of visiting the flour mill, the Mulino’s cultivations and the artisanal pastificio and discover how a grain of wheat can turn into pasta. Overnight guests furthermore have the chance of tasting all Mulino Val d’Orcia’s products at breakfast and dinner, all prepared by Palamina, the family chef.
http://www.mulinovaldorcia.it
Sleep
Image by Monteverdi Tuscany
Sleep
Monteverdi Tuscany, Sarteano
secluded hamlet
A retreat from the ordinary, a place where to experience the best in hospitality, design, architecture, food and wine. Suites, spa, health treatments and fine dining all in one historical hamlet.
https://monteverdituscany.comImage by Locanda in Tuscany
Locanda in Tuscany, Castiglione d'Orcia
rustic luxury
Stay in a renovated Tuscan farmhouse with a 365 degree view of Val d’Orcia, hills and wheat fields as far as the eye can see. Spacious suites filled with local and organic products to experience true Tuscan hospitality!
https://www.locandaintuscany.itImage by Follonico
Follonico, Torrita di Siena
remote & secluded luxury
A unique country house, far away from everything yet magically close, with a wonderful host and chef who prepares homegrown organic breakfasts and dinners based around local and traditional flavours.
http://www.follonico.com/index.phpImage by @laguidadellitoraletoscano
Agriturismo Humile, Chianciano Terme
green & secluded
Three rooms renovated in 18th century style, all built using bio construction, using natural, raw materials only like lime and travertine. Enjoy the privacy and wide open spaces of a tiny boutique hotel, where every detail has been cared for.
https://www.agriturismohumile.com/en/Image by Siena House
Siena House, Torrita di Siena
rustic - modern
A restored, ancient podere by an artist and Wall Street Trader, offering all the comforts of the latest tech and welcoming hospitality with the intimacy and rustic feel of the southern Tuscan countryside.
https://www.sienahouse.netEat
Image by La Porta di Sotto
Eat
La Porta di Sotto, Buonconvento
osteria & wine bar
Farm to table ingredients and philosophy with a carefully selected wine list in the town’s historical centre.
http://www.laportadisotto.itImage by Piccola Trattoria Guastini
Piccola Trattoria Guastini, Torrita di Siena
slow food & view
Homemade food, from pasta and bread to all the sauces on a wonderful terrace overlooking the fascinating Val di Chiana.
Image by Tenuta di Paganico
Tenuta di Paganico
sustainable farm & food
Stretching over 1500 hectares of land on which indigenous animal species roam free, from Cinta Senese pigs to Maremmana cattle. Taste the delicious meat & more local products in their rustic restaurant with outdoor grill.
https://www.tenutadipaganico.it/en/