Montepulciano
Vino Nobile, winding streets and sweeping views of Val d'Orcia and Val di Chiana.
Montepulciano, image by Edward Riddell
The narrow streets of Montepulciano
History
Montepulciano, image by Edward Riddell
The narrow streets of Montepulciano
Originally an Etruscan settlement, Montepulciano was founded around the 4th century B.C. due to its excellent position which allows you to see both Val di Chiana and Val d’Orcia. The town was long contended by Siena and Florence, ultimately flourishing under Florence throughout the Renaissance, during which Montepulciano became the Medici’s outpost in the South of Tuscany, partly in merit of the strategic routes that passed by it.
The link is even more evident when observing how similar, if not identical, Montepulciano’s municipal building and Florence’s - Palazzo Vecchio - are. This resemblance was strictly demanded by Cosimo I de Medici.
Montepulciano has always been an important place, it was a garrison (group of troup settlements), during the rule of Ancient Rome and a noteworthy religious centre during the Longobard reign.
Cantina Contucci, Montepulciano
The view from Montepulciano
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Cantina Contucci, Montepulciano
The view from Montepulciano
One of the oldest and most refined Tuscan wines, produced from a grape variety known as Prugnolo Gentile, a clone of Sangiovese, due to the prune aroma that characterizes the wine. It has been considered a prestigious wine since the Renaissance, and the number of producers and production area has not expanded much since it was officially delineated. Documents and findings demonstrate that wine production in the area dates as far back as the Etruschi.
Montepulciano’s soil is composed by a mixture of sand and clay, which are perfect for producing well structured, very aromatic wines with fine tannins, however not as mineral as Brunello di Montalcino. Another interesting distinction between Vino Nobile and Brunello is that the latter has cellars scattered all around the municipality, whereas the vast majority of Vino Nobile’s cellars are within Montepulciano’s medieval walls. A great way of depicting the town’s very different histories: one that flourished thanks to farmers turned winemakers and the other from noble families who produced wine and stored it protectively in their palace cellars. Like Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is protected under the DOCG appellation, the highest level of recognition that exists.
Sante Lancerio, Pope Paolo the III’s wine expert, would travel all around Italy looking for the best wines to serve the Pope and his court. His note on Vino Nobile was that the wine was “perfectissimo”.
Painting by Italo Zecchi
Visit
Fortezza di Montepulciano
Painting by Italo Zecchi
The fortress' existence was first mentioned in the 7th century when it was known as Castrum Politianum and had the purpose of defending the city as its position is extremely strategic: from the top you can see Val di Chiana on one side and Val d’Orcia on the other. The fort which resembles more what we can see nowadays was built in 1261 whilst Montepulciano was under the reign of Siena. A second interesting role the fortress undertook was when, at the end of 1800, Francesco Saverio Melissari bred silkworms in a few of the structure's gigantic rooms. In 1935 it was then transformed into the local high school but has since become Montepulciano’s cultural centre.
http://www.montepulcianoblog.com/fortezza-montepulciano/
Palazzo Contucci interior, image by Palazzo Contucci
Palazzo Contucci
Palazzo Contucci interior, image by Palazzo Contucci
One of the palazzi that sits on the central square is the perfect example of Tuscan architectural Renaissance. Just below the palace are the monumental Cantine Contucci, which were built upon the city’s Medieval walls. The Contucci family is part of the group of families attributable to Vino Nobile’s success—their cellar has been actively producing wine for 1000 years. Their belief on what wine from Montepulciano should be like is the following: “a wine produced from noble grapes intended for the consumption at noble dinner tables”.
https://www.contucci.it/it/
Palazzo Ricci's façade, image by wikipedia
Palazzo Ricci
Palazzo Ricci's façade, image by wikipedia
Palazzo Ricci is one of the most well-preserved Renaissance structures in Montepulciano, built in the 16th century on commission by Cardinal Giovanni Maria Ricci, born in 1479 and one of the most influential figures the Vatican had in the sixteenth century. It houses a timeless wine cellar which is known as “the cathedral of wine” as well as a chapel which is ran by the Accademia Musicale Renana. Since 1970 the palazzo has belonged to the town, who has been lending it to the Hochschule für Musik Köln which houses the European Academy of Music Arts since 2001.
https://www.palazzoricci.com
Museo Civico di Montepulciano, image by Museo Civico Montepulciano
Palazzo Neri Orselli
Museo Civico di Montepulciano, image by Museo Civico Montepulciano
The palazzo, which used to belong to the Della Robbia family, now houses the Museo Civico di Montepulciano, an archeological museum, worth a visit, especially on a rainy day.
The palazzo is only open Thursdays and Fridays, subject to change according to new regulations.
https://www.museocivicomontepulciano.it/it/The cypress-lined road which leads to the Church of San Biagio
Chiesa di San Biagio
The cypress-lined road which leads to the Church of San Biagio
Just below Montepulciano’s historic centre sits the church of San Biagio, often referred to as a temple due to its grandeur. It was built in the 16th century by Antonio de Sangallo the Elder, and is a great example of classic Tuscan Renaissance. Built on a pre-existing pieve which originated in the paleochristian era - around the year 300. Pay close attention to the organ, built by Alamanno Contucci in 1781.
The church is closed to the public on Saturday.
https://www.tempiosanbiagio.itThe Duomo, image by E-Borghi
Chisa di Santa Maria delle Grazie, image by Italian Travelers
The well in Montepulciano's main square
Il Pozzo dei Grifi e dei Leoni
The well in Montepulciano's main square
The well found in Montepulciano’s central piazza was designed by Antonio de Sangallo in 1520, when he was residing in the town. The de Medici’s family crest sits above the well: six balls on the front of a shield and Florence’s symbol on the back, with two lions holding up the crest.
Bravio delle Botti, image by Toscana Umbria in Treno
Events
Bravio delle Botti, image by Toscana Umbria in Treno
February - Anteprima del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
July - Cantiere Internazionale d’Arte
August - Bravio delle Botti - Montepulciano’s historical wine cask competition between all the different contrade.
August - Bruscello - teatro popolare
August - Calici di Stelle
September - Live Rock Festival - over 100 artists perform every year in Acquaviva, a small town just outside of Montepulciano, over the course of 5 days.
Quiet street in Monticchiello
Bike & Walk
Montepulciano to Monticchiello
1 hour 45 minute walk
Begin your walk in Via dei Grassi, Montepulciano, and begin making your way towards Vicolo dei Grassi. Once at San Biagio, walk around the church and turn onto Via di Pescaia. Once you reach the end of the road, keep the farmhouse to your right and turn left, then turn right onto SS146, for a few hundred meters. Keep left onto Via di Poggiano, then keep left at the fork with Via del Termine. After some kilometers you’ll reach an intersection in the woods. Keep left and walk down the winding road. At the intersection keep left again, turning towards Monticchiello, then turn left again on Via 7 Aprile and finally left again onto Via Marino Cappelli, where up ahead of you Monticchiello sits.
Image by booking.com
Eat
Osteria del Borgo
osteria & view
A family run, rustic osteria with an outdoor terrace overlooking hills, cypresses and medieval forts.
https://www.osteriadelborgo.itImage by Strada del Vino Nobile
Osteria Porta di Bacco
upscale Tuscan
A great wine selection and refined Tuscan cuisine in Montepulciano’s historical centre.
https://www.portadibacco.itImage by Histotouring
La Grotta
refined & delicious
Right next to the temple of San Biagio is this delicious restaurant serving classic and reinterpreted Tuscan dishes. Highly recommended for a special occasion.
https://www.lagrottamontepulciano.it/main.phpImage from Pinterest
E Lucevan le Stelle
wine & view
A family owned enoteca with the option of tasting traditional Tuscan dishes or enjoying a drink at sunset.
https://www.facebook.com/e-lucevan-le-stelle-179754535409317Image by Enoteca La Dolce Vita
Enoteca la dolce vita
wine & food
The enoteca is home to a great selection of wines, with more than 600 labels, dug into the historic town centre.
https://www.enotecaladolcevita.itImage by @sachabox
Caffè Poliziano
historic cafè & pasticceria
Feel the history etched deep in the walls of this cafè which has been serving locals and tourists their morning coffee since 1868.
Image by La Briciola
La Briciola
rustic Tuscan
Traditional Tuscan food, from crostini with patè to fresh pici with all the trimmings, all accompanied by an excellent selection of local wines.
https://www.facebook.com/labriciolamontepulcianoImage by Il Tosco
Sleep
Il Tosco
historic palace
A family run hotel with four double rooms in Montepulciano’s historic centre.
https://iltosco.comImage by Agoda
Locanda San Francesco
historic with a view
A 14th century palace overlooking the Tuscan countryside.
https://www.locandasanfrancesco.itImage by Tablet Hotels
Villa Poggiano
villa & gardens
just 2km from the Medieval town sits a wonderful villa from the 1700’s, entirely restructured and with a marble pool built in the previous century.
https://www.villapoggiano.comImage by Villa Cicolina
Villa Cicolina
noble villa turned modern stay
Entirely renovated 1800’s villa with a great selection of suites and an infinity pool overlooking Val di Chiana.
https://www.villacicolina.itImage by Lupaia
Lupaia
farmhouse stay
Experience life in an upscale Tuscan podere with the perfect balance between a rustic feel and modern comforts.
http://www.lupaia.com/en/Bar in Montepulciano, image by Compass + Twine
Montepulciano's narrow streets
Shop
Bar in Montepulciano, image by Compass + Twine
Montepulciano's narrow streets
Bottega del Rame
copper crafts
the last copper craftsmen left in Montepulciano, who sells all sorts of objects and utensils.
https://www.rameria.comUrban Bikery
bike rental
Rent anything from an e-bike to a traditional road bike for your personal excursion or one with an expert local guide
http://www.urbanbikery.itAliseda
goldsmith
Artisanal goldsmith workshop with a rich selection of unique jewels.
https://www.aliseda.itEnrico Crociani
tailor
Custom made refined Italian suits and male clothing.
https://www.enricocrociani.comCorinne
accessories
A great selection of handmade jewellery and accessories.
https://www.instagram.com/corinnegioielli/?hl=en